An American In Belgrade

It seems that more and more Americans visiting Serbia are realizing that Serbia is not a black hole, but a vibrant country. The latest example comes from Hocknod, an American travelling this summer across Europe. Hocknod put up a blog post called “Belgrade: je t’aime, errr, volim te.” He had a good time in Belgrade (and Novi Sad), and was sad to leave Serbia. “If it wasn’t 5000 miles away from home (let’s say it was just 500) I might never leave.” Why?

First, Hocknod enjoyed Serbian food “Didn’t expect this, certainly, but all the local fare was excellent. Whether it was a meal at Salaš 137 or just Serbian hors d’oeuvres, the food was excellent all around.”

Second, Hocknod found Belgrade to be an interesting city “Better than I expected. From the stories I was told, I expected to see half-blown up buildings everywhere. While I did see one or two, everything was more or less in tact. As I stated before, it certainly wasn’t as pretty as Scandinavia (and can we stop with the graffiti already? who thinks that’s a good idea??), but there are some hidden gems in the city, and not just Skadarlija.” Oh yes, Skadarlija. He went in Belgrade bohemian quarter for dinner “It’s about this time that I come to the realization that no, Belgrade is not some war-torn ghetto you see in films in the States (they don’t specifically target Serbia, but rather the entire Eastern Bloc). It gets a bad rep being part of former Yugoslavia and being a very poor country, but I like it. It’s not as pretty as Copenhagen or Stockholm certainly, but there are some hidden treasures here; Skardarlija, reminiscent of Montmartre, is an excellent example. So we’re sitting there, and I realize I am in the midst of paradise: it’s about 75F, there is live music and people cheering, beers are flowing and they are cheap (I’ll take a €1.50 Lav over a €6 Carlsberg (Denmark) any day), and the women (at our table, no less!) are stunning.”

Hocknod’s story is just another example of an American who realize that Belgrade is not some war-torn ghetto you see in films in the States, but instead a lively city. Who’s next?

Preconceptions of Serbia

This summer, 25 Global Agents for Change are riding from Amsterdam to Istanbul to raise money and awareness for microcredit. Teams of 25 incredible young people (18-30) spent four days in Serbia. One of them, Chris Walts, put up a blog post over at globalafc.org, discussing preconceptions of Serbia.

Preconceptions are an interesting thing. While I know that most people in our group were very eager to visit Serbia many were also very wary of the “horror stories” that seem to be around. Even neighboring countries and past residents had given us tips and warnings about it, but almost none of them have been true. It seems like the further east we go the more the nicer, friendlier, and more welcoming people becoming, and Serbia thus far has been the nicest.

It’s yet another example showing that all negative preconceptions of Serbia are totally unfounded.

Travel To Ex-Yu – How Dangerous Is It Really?

I have visited Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Serbia and I’ve always been warmly welcomed and never felt threatened. As a keen traveller to this incredible part of the world I would like to say a few things. I can relate to the negative comments I receive when I tell people that I travel to any country within ex-Yu. The most predictable is always, “oh, don’t they have mines all over the country?” and “isn’t it extremely dangerous for foreigners to visit there?”

What most people fail to understand is that foreigners have always visited and made their home in ex-Yu for centuries and have always been as warmly welcomed then as they are today. The entire region has always set the standard for what the true definition of hospitality is all about. These days the materialism of Western Europe and North America can learn a lot about this. In my opinion only someone completely ignorant and insensitive need to worry about travelling to any part of the ex-Yu, including Serbia and Kosovo. Common sense, acceptance and unbiased understanding does indeed go a long way and in return you will get so much back. People will more likely be more open about the local feeling towards the rest of the region, and that to me is such a valuable thing to receive from the people, the local perspective.

People should really read at least one book on the recent history of any region before asking such outdated question, and also remember that most recent history is not covered by CNN. I mean, how many Americans have been to visit Vietnam as a curious tourist? They are more likely to inflame local feeling in Vietnam just by their presence than anywhere in the ex-Yu, including Serbia.

From my experience though, if you are likely to mix with people of a similar age to yourself they will most likely want to talk about music, football and things like that. The older generation are far more likely to share those stories of what the general feeling is like, and when they do the best thing to do is just listen and respect their view.

I have visited Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Serbia and I’ve always been warmly welcomed and never felt threatened or not included. Most outsider’s views of this region are, I find, very outdated and I’ve also found a little annoying. Through their bone idle ignorance they are missing out on so much. But I guess that ignorance is just some people’s way of coming to terms with something they have no intention to understand.

To me the region of the ex-Yu has often had many similarities to the differences between Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland. Both speaking the same language and sense of warm welcome to visitors. There are certain areas of Northern Ireland that are seen as sensitive in the same way as certain areas along the borders of Croatia, Bosnia and Serbia. But as a visitor you will certainly be welcomed and you will always have the benefit of learning a real local perspective.

Serbia Warmly Welcomes All Foreigners

I am a British citizen, who has had the pleasure of living and working in the Balkans for over 3 years. There is no avoiding the fact that this is an exciting, enticing, endearing, wonderful place that is also often frustrating as hell, but is always facinating. As to danger, I tell people honestly that I would be in more danger in my small home town in the West of England on an average Friday night than I have ever been during my extensive travels in the region.

These are wonderful people (all ‘flavours’ of them), who are generally friendly, intelligent, warm and welcoming, and extremely tolerant of and intrigued by foreigners. I completely agree with David Faber’s comments about the need for respect and humility when we are visitors – but, having travelled in a lot of places, this rule should surely apply wherever we are in the world. It’s just common sense and decency.

Like all good hosts, Serbia warmly welcomes all guests who know how to appreciate its hospitality. I’ve had the great pleasure of welcoming quite a few friends here in Serbia for their first visit. Every one of them wants to come back. Enough said?

Is Serbia Safe For Americans And Other Foreigners?

Pozdrav iz Srbije! My name is David Faber. I’m on a month-long trip to former Yugoslavia and Karl Haudbourg asked me to write something regarding safety in Serbia (I went ahead and expanded the subject to include the rest of former Yugoslavia). I’m honored to be able to offer my views on the subject.

Each of the three times that I’ve departed my home in Washington State for the constituent republics of the former Yugoslavia my friends and family are full of questions such as “isn’t it really dangerous there?!” or “don’t they all hate each other?!” or “aren’t Americans at risk for being killed in the Balkans?!?!?!” And chances are that if you’re considering a trip around the region you’re experiencing the same thing. Just treat it as an opportunity to educate and inform those who’ve heard only bad things about Serbia and the Balkans.

Let my start by saying: It is a common misconception that A.) Americans (and other foreigners) are in danger when traveling through former Yugoslavia (that’s: Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, Macedonia and, depending upon your opinion on the subject, Kosovo) and B.) that the average citizen of the former Yugoslav republics generally feel ill-will toward their ex-countrymen-and-women.

There are of course subjects that should be avoided until you get to know those around you – much like in the rest of the world. Such topics of conversation include issues of politics and religion. If you wouldn’t
randomly discuss a given issue with people in your home country you should probably avoid such topics while in, say, Serbia or Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is also true that in the hinterland of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo and Croatia (though it may no longer be accurate in the latter) one might run across the odd landmine or two, but you’re unlikely to find yourself in those dangerous locations randomly. Lastly, there are nationalists in Serbia or Croatia who are full vitriol toward those ethnic groups around them – much like you can find racist nationalists throughout America or France or Russia. It would be disingenuous of me to continue with this post without mentioning those things.

To combat point A from above (that Americans and other foreigners are in danger while traveling through former Yu.) I only offer anecdotal evidence – I’ve never been harmed, mistreated, yelled at or even felt anything other than incredible levels of hospitality and warmth. In the interest of full disclosure it should be noted that while in Serbia I’ve almost exclusively stayed with locals which has potentially (thought doubtful) insulated me from such unpleasantness. I’ve also rarely, if ever, heard reports from foreigners traveling there that indicated were treated poorly and the only foreign fatalities I’ve heard about were either military (in Kosovo or Bosnia during the 1990s) or due to accidents such as transportation accidents or drunken idiots at the EXIT festival in Novi Sad. HOWEVER, It is true that an American, or other foreign visitor, acting foolish or disrespectful can quickly earn the ire of the people around them in the Balkans – much like they can elsewhere in Europe and indeed the world.

I’ve spent more time than I care to remember busting the myth about “ancient ethnic hatred” in the Balkans. Too many people are guilty of making the claim that Serbs hate Croats, Bosniaks hate Serbs and Croats hate Montenegrins, etc…. I’ve even heard people in Croatia and Serbia repeat those rumors (though they’re quick to point out that they don’t feel that way, only that other ethnic groups do). Such erroneous assumptions don’t flush with the facts on the ground in the 1990s let alone any other decade.

Prior to the first World War most of the resistance movements started by Croats and Slovenes living under Austro-Hungarian rule and Serbs and Macedonians living under Ottoman rule were undertaken with the explicit goal of uniting the south Slavic people. Croats fought to be bound in a state with their eastern neighbors and visa-versa. The first Yugoslavia, established following World War 1, wasn’t universally welcomed by its inhabitants but there was significant support for a sovereign state of the South Slavs. Much, though not all, of the resistance to the new state took the form of dissatisfaction with the way government policies were implemented and rejection of the form of government (monarchy).

It was the communist and multi-ethnic Partisans, led by Josip Broz “Tito”, who beat back the Nazis, Croatian fascist Ustashe and Serbian pro-monarchist Chetniks, among other groups, in Yugoslavia during World War 2. The partisans attracted people of all Yugoslav nations in full knowledge that they were working to establish a new form of Yugoslavia. This despite the fact that the allies initially supported the Chetniks and the Nazis supported the Ustashe. Who, then, appears to have garnered the largest amount of public support during the war? Conventional wisdom points to the partisans.

Ante Markovic, a professed Yugoslav and pro-unionist, was the most popular politician in 1980s Yugoslavia. Milosevic used dirty tricks to destroy Markovic’s political life. Milosevic did not, in general, enjoy popular
support. This is highlighted by the fact that Serbia had an ~80% military desertion rate during the 1990′s (and in larger cities that rate was closer to 95%) which tends to suggest that there was not popular support for the dissolution of Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, nobody had the political capital to resist Milosevic in Serbia, Tudjman in Croatia or Izetbegovic in Bosnia and Herzegovina, among others. Yugoslavia became the victim of shock-capitalism and warfare. Serbia lost more than a decade of potential economic growth. Had Yugoslavia remained a unified state they would have walked straight into the European Union, been on the Euro by now and been one of the largest voting blocks in Europe. As it stands now they are a fractured group of small states with economies still trying to figure out how to catch up with much of the rest of Europe. It’s a very different story from the post-WW2 era Yugoslavia which experienced the fastest rate of industrialization and economic growth internationally at that point in time. It’s a very unfortunate story and one that – if each state gets its wish – will end with them all being reunited in a common state once again: the European Union.

So, despite what people may say – even some people of former Yugoslavia – the average person in Bosnia or Montenegro tends to have (both now and historically) no general feelings of hatred for any ethnic group. As long as Americans (and other travelers for that matter) behave in a reasonable manner they’re likely to find Serbia and the other former Yugoslav republics a bit safer than most of the rest of Europe. Street crime is virtually unheard of. For me it’s been an incredibly rewarding experience being in this part of the world. Unprecedented levels of hospitality abound, the food is fantastic, the scenery incredible and varied, the cultures are deep and intriguing and the history is fascinating and complicated. I make no promises regarding your safety here because I’d hate to be proven wrong but it’s highly likely that your travels in Serbia and the rest of the Balkans will be wonderfully unforgettable and amazing.

A Canadian In Belgrade

Fabian McKenzie, an assistant with the Canadian development women’s basketball team, had a great day in Belgrade this week. The Canadian team came away with his first win at the 25th Summer Universiade, and “the real adventure came after the game” as “The coaching staff decided to explore what downtown Belgrade nightlife was like.” They went to Republic Square “This is located in old Belgrade and it beautiful. There are a number of pedestrian streets with shops and art displays and a pile of sidewalk cafes. We sat at one and just people watched for a while. All I can say is that Serbian women are impressive!!!” That’s what we say over and over again. Belgrade’s girls are beautiful.

Then, someone told them there were many restaurants in Belgrade’s Bohemian quarter of Skadarlija. Well, they gave it a try. “I didn’t know what to expect but I was floored when I got there. Cobblestone streets lined with cafes, restaurants and artisans. It looked like something out of a painting.” And the dinner was great. “Our waiter recommended a sampler plate so I went for it. It arrived with a few potatoes on it and then 3 different sausages, a bacon wrapped chicken breast, a cheese stuffed pork tenderloin sample, a piece of beef and then something else I thought was pork. The potatoes may have been the best ever and the meat was OUTSTANDING. What an amazing meal in an amazing environment.”

Back in June, Fabian McKenzie explained that he was happy to go to Serbia, and finally see the land of basketball. “If you asked 100 people to list the countries they would most like to visit I would be willing to wager that none of them would have Serbia on their list. For me however, it has been on my top 5 list for many years. Why would I say Serbia you ask? Well as you know, I have a little bit of a passion for the game of basketball and on the international scene Serbia is known as “the land of basketball”. I’m not sure he discovered the real land of basketball. At least, he saw the beautiful girls of Belgrade, and what downtown Belgrade nightlife was like. Not so bad.

Is Serbia a safe place for an American to live and work?

Last year, the Belgrade Statistical office carried out a survey of foreigners in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia – there were around 7000. One of them is Bill Kralovec, a 41-years-old man who is the Secondary Principal of the International School of Belgrade (ISB).

Founded in downtown Belgrade in 1948 by the wife of the British Ambassador, Lady Peak, the International School of Belgrade is an independent and co-educational school of over 400 international students. Currently 57 different nationalities are represented in the International School of Belgrade. ISB offers the primary years program in English for students in early years (age 3) through grade 9 – 12 (ages 15 – 18).

Bill Kralovec is originally from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, USA and recently moved to Belgrade, where he lives with his wife, Nadia, a 31-years-old Australian and their three children, Owen (age 5), Oliver (age 4), and Ocean (18 months). He has worked in international schools for the past 16 years in Barranquilla, Colombia, Santa Cruz, Bolivia, Perth, Western Australia. After 6 years in Anaco, Venezuela, he decided to leave, and accepted a contract offer from the International School of Belgrade, in Serbia. Of course, he had many questions and concerns in moving a large family to Serbia.

“It was the first time we had to move with children. All three kids were born in Venezuela. Nadia also turned down a grade 3 teaching position. We were first worried if we could make it financially without Nadia working. Then in May a Kinder teaching position opened and then we worried about finding a nanny. Nadia also had a negative impression of Serbia from observations from leaving expats. I was concerned if I had taken a step down moving from Director to Principal. The photos of the house were also not pleasing. We were worried if we made the right decision.”

What he found inside Serbia, was not a dangerous country filled with inhospitable people, but instead a safe country with plenty to do for children:

“Now, a year later and six months into our new life in Serbia, we feel we made the right decision. We found Vera Tutuš, who turned out to be a hard-working, trustworthy nanny for Ocean and our home. She not only watches Ocean, but does a majority of the domestic chores. I am renewed with the challenges of a new, larger school. I was getting stale in Venezuela. We also were pleasantly surprised at how nice Belgrade and the Serbians turned out to be. It is a safe country with plenty to do for children.”

Want to know more about Bill Kralovec life in Serbia? He is also a blogger. He expresses opinions and talks about almost everything, life in Belgrade and Serbia, his kids, types of gasoline in Serbia, shopping mall in Belgrade, and taking swimming lessons “I highly recommend the swimming club to anyone. Owen is the only foreigner, but we are treated very well by all. That is one thing that everyone always says about the Serbs here in Belgrade, they are really nice.” It’s a well worth reading blog about Serbia and Belgrade. Enjoy absolutely amazing pictures of Belgrade. A must see blog!

Is Serbia A Safe Place To Travel With Kids?

A few years ago, Natalie Holmes wrote a well-worth reading article for the Independent about Kopaonik, noting that Kopaonik was welcoming more British skier. She also pointed out the standard reaction of friends on learning she was taking its children skiing in Serbia: “Don’t forget your flak jacket”. Of course, that’s pretty ridiculous. Serbia is safe to travel for families, clean and offers adventurous activities for any age group all around the country. Unfortunately, the legacy of Serbia’s recent past leaves pre-conceptions in the minds of people unfamiliar with recent changes.

I understand quite well that ‘I’m going to Serbia with kids’ is a statement that evokes many concerns and warnings for family safety from family and friends, but they are totally unfounded. Hopefully, many travelers have come to realize that Serbia is a great place to visit for all the family. The latest example is a recent blog post by Alex, an Australian citizen travelling around the world in 243 days. He stopped at a small village (9 000 inhabitants) called Sremski Karlovci for lunch. What he found inside the village, was not a dangerous village filled with inhospitable people, but instead a safer environment than London for kids.

“Along the way we stopped at a small village called Sremski Karlovci for lunch. Someone heard us talking English and before long a bloke sat down with us, we thought he might be there to interpret the menu for us. Instead he introduced himself as Dragan (scary name, nice bloke) and proceeded to tell us all about the local area, what to see, where to go and lots about the history. It turned out that he had lived in London with his English wife Karen and after having 2 kids they decided to move back to Serbia. Why? Because Serbia is a safer environment than London to bring up kids. It might sound crazy but it’s true, the area feels like its still stuck in the 1950′s in some ways, the kids just roaming around being kids and no one worried about it at all.”

This is yet another example of why the fears of violence are unfounded in Serbia. Don’t let ignorant people spoil your holiday, Serbia is one of the safest places to travel with kids.

Surprising Survey Results Reveal That Belgrade Is A Safe City

A few weeks back, we wrote about how Belgrade is a safe city for foreigners, and Belgraders friendly and welcoming to travelers. We pointed out the statements made by Fabien Cerisier, a French who has been living in Serbia for over five years, claiming that Belgrade is perfectly safe “Belgrade has turned out to be a place where the streets are safe, day or night.” Now it seems that there are many foreign people living in Belgrade, like Fabien cerisier that feel about the same about safety in the city of Belgrade. Balkanfile is pointing to a new survey based on interviews with more than 450 foreigners living in Belgrade. 82 percent of foreigners living in Belgrade said Belgraders are very friendly. The study also found that 82 percent of foreign residents feel safe in Belgrade. There’s not much else to add. All fears of being physically attacked or harassed in Belgrade just because you are a foreigner are completely unfounded.

Is Belgrade A Safe City For Foreigners?

We recently pointed out the statements made by Wade, a traveler, who has ventured through over 40 countries on five continents, insisting that Belgrade is very much welcoming, overtly friendly, and safe for foreigners. Slowly, but surely, more travelers are starting to figure it out: Belgrade is a safe city for foreigners.
Whether they want to believe it or not, Belgrade is a safe city for foreigners. The latest example, is Fabien Cerisier, Regional Manager of ELSYS Eastern Europe located in Belgrade, who gave an interview to balkaninsight pointed out:

Before I arrived, my view of Serbia and Serbs was shaped by news coverage of the wars of the 90’s. The picture I had, was of Serbian responsibility for those wars and therefore, that Serbs, generally, were troublemakers. Instead, Belgrade has turned out to be a place where the streets are safe, day or night.

Well, it works quite well as a response to ignorant comments from people who mistakenly claim that Belgrade is a dangerous city for foreigners.

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