Jessica, a young black American woman, and her friend Grace Lee Barlow made a trip to Belgrade last month. They had both a great time in Belgrade, enjoying Serbian food, Skadarlija (the bohemian quarter of Belgrade), Kalemegdan fortress, and Rakija (plum brandy) at 11am!.
Check out more photos (by British photographer Ian Furniss) of Skadarlija (or Skadarska), the old Bohemian quarter of Belgrade here. And discover why it’s one place you most definitely shouldn’t miss while visiting Belgrade.
Last month, we posted a photo of musicians playing traditional music in the famous restaurant Dva Jelena (Two Deers) in the bohemian quarter of Belgrade, Skadarlija. Now, here is a short video showing the atmosphere in the Belgrade Restaurant Dva Jelena – Saturday, April 17, 2010.
Skadarlija. It’s a place where time has no meaning. Walk the length of this cobbled street and time will stand still. Stop for a moment, and it’ll subtly shift you backwards to the days when actors, & writers would gather to eat, drink, and be inspired by its beauty and atmosphere. Turn around, and it’ll move you forward, leaving you breathless, imagining the evening ahead, and the delights yet to come.
It’s a place I fell in love with as soon as I took my first tentative steps into the lights and sounds that had captivated me and pulled me towards them like sirens from Anthemusa … and then I drowned in it … the smell of fine food and an atmosphere of pure delight! Go there in the day and you can relax, drink coffee, maybe pass the time just sitting and talking with friends or perhaps browsing for souvenirs, but go there in the evening, and the place comes alive to the scent of roštilj and the sound of music drifting towards the heavens. There is no place quite like it on earth, of that i’m sure, and should you take the time to visit Belgrade it’s one place you most definitely shouldn’t miss.
My name is Skadarlija…or Skadarska street, however you like it. I am no boulevard…or avenue…or highway. I am a common steep curved alley in the middle of Belgrade. And that would be everything meaningful to be told about me if it wouldn’t be for my bohemian history, my crumbling roofs, my shaking chairs… —Zuko Džumhur
This video is a compilation of some of the photos I took on a recent visit to Belgrade. As a collection they’re a little mixed but they show what I’d describe as perhaps “a day in the life of…”. Belgrade means many things to me but in essence it means life and living and so the slideshow begins with St Sava and the young child in the foreground playing in a way that reminded me of my own youthful fascinations. I like to begin my day when I can, by taking a walk alongside the river. Rivers have often symbolised life in the sense of being the veins of a city and in Belgrade it’s no different. Walking by the river makes me feel connected to life in a way that streets can’t. With streets it feels like you are a part of life, with the river you observe it.
After that, I have to stop for coffee. I’m a typical insanely enthusiastic English tea drinker but there’s something about Belgrade coffee that I love. Perhaps it’s the taste, or maybe it’s just the memories of sitting & stirring like a madman with little or no success when I first tried to make it! Either way, I adore it and a morning wouldn’t be complete without at least two. Walking through Skadarlija & Kalemegdan are something I always look forward to whenever I visit Belgrade. As is sitting and watching the sun go down. In Belgrade it’s the perfect end to the day. You reflect on the day that’s gone, and recharge for the evening ahead and the delights yet to come.
Over the summer, we wrote about Fabian McKenzie, an assistant with the Canadian development women’s basketball team, having an amazing meal in a restaurant in Skadarlija (Belgrade’s Bohemian quarter). “What an amazing meal in an amazing environment.” The latest example of a foreigner enjoying Serbian cuisine comes from Anna, an Australian women, visiting family and friends in Serbia.
“And after a short wander down the street (which I love love love), we sauntered over to ‘Ima Dana’ (’There are Days’), a restaurant serving traditional Serbian cuisine. After some careful deliberation over the menu, I opted for the Pork schnitzel covered in cheese and champignon sauce and a mixed salad. The mixed salad consists of grilled peppers drizzled in garlic sauce, cabbage salad and a selection of cut vegetables. Delicious.”
It’s just another example of a foreigner enjoying Serbian cuisine in Belgrade, and Skadarlija’s amazing atmosphere.